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Marrakech

1Asthecorpsewentpasttheflieslefttherestauranttableinacloudandrushedafterit,buttheycamebackafewminuteslater.

一具尸体抬过,成群的苍蝇从饭馆的餐桌上嗡嗡而起追逐过去,但几分钟过后又飞了回来。

2Thelittlecrowdofmourners--allmenandboys,nowomen--threadedtheirwayacrossthemarketplacebetweenthepilesofpomegranatesandthetaxisandthecamels,wallingashortchantoverandoveragain.Whatreallyappealstothefliesisthatthecorpseshereareneverputintocoffins,theyaremerelywrappedinapieceofragandcarriedonaroughwoodenbierontheshouldersoffourfriends.Whenthefriendsgettotheburying-groundtheyhackanoblongholeafootortwodeep,dumpthebodyinitandflingoveritalittleofthedried-up,lumpyearth,whichislikebrokenbrick.Nogravestone,noname,noidentifyingmarkofanykind.Theburying-groundismerelyahugewasteofhummockyearth,likeaderelictbuilding-lot.Afteramonthortwonoonecanevenbecertainwherehisownrelativesareburied.

一支人数不多的送葬队伍——其中老少尽皆男性,没有一个女的——沿着集贸市场,从一堆堆石榴摊子以及出租汽车和骆驼中间挤道而行,一边走着一边悲痛地重复着一支短促的哀歌。苍蝇之所以群起追逐是因为在这个地方死人的尸首从不装进棺木,只是用一块破布裹着放在一个草草做成的木头架子上,有四个朋友抬着送葬。朋友们到了安葬场后,便在地上挖出一个一二英尺深的长方形坑,将尸首往坑里一倒。再扔一些像碎砖头一样的干土块。不立墓碑,不留姓名,什么识别标志都没有。坟场只不过是一片土丘林立的荒野,恰似一片已废弃不用的建筑场地。一两个月过后,就谁也说不准自己的亲人葬于何处了。

3Whenyouwalkthroughatownlikethis--twohundredthousandinhabitantsofwhomatleasttwentythousandownliterallynothingexcepttheragstheystandupin--whenyouseehowthepeoplelive,andstillmorehoweasilytheydie,itisalwaysdifficulttobelievethatyouarewalkingamonghumanbeings.Allcolonialempiresareinrealityfoundeduponthisfact.Thepeoplehavebrownfaces--besides,therearesomanyofthem!Aretheyreallythesamefleshasyourself?Dotheyevenhavenames?Oraretheymerelyakindofundifferentiatedbrownstuff,aboutasindividualasbeesorcoralinsects?Theyriseoutoftheearth,theysweatandstarveforafewyears,andthentheysinkbackintothenamelessmoundsofthegraveyardandnobodynoticesthattheyaregone.Andeventhegravesthemselvessoonfadebackintothesoil.Sometimes,outforawalkasyoubreakyourwaythroughthepricklypear,younoticethatitisratherbumpyunderfoot,andonlyacertainregularityinthebumpstellsyouthatyouarewalkingoverskeletons.

当你穿行在这样的城镇——其居民20万中至少有2万是除开一身聊以蔽体的破衣烂衫之外完全一无所有——当你看到那些人是如何生活,又如何轻易地死去时,你永远难以相信自己是行走在人类之中。实际上,这是所有的殖民帝国赖以建立的基础。这里的人都有一张褐色的脸,而且,人数如此之多!他们真的和你一样同属人类吗?难道他们也会有名有姓吗?也许他们只是像彼此之间难以区分的蜜蜂或珊瑚虫一样的东西。他们从泥土里长出来,受苦受累,忍饥挨饿过上几年,然后又被埋在那一个个无名的小坟丘里。谁也不会注意到他们的离去。就是那些小坟丘本身也过不了很久便会变成平地。有时当你外出散步,穿过仙人掌丛时,你会感觉到地上有些绊脚的东西,只有这些有规则的突起的土包才会告诉你,你正踩在死人骷髅上。

4Iwasfeedingoneofthegazellesinthepublicgardens.

我正在公园里给其中一只瞪羚喂食。

5Gazellesarealmosttheonlyanimalsthatlookgoodtoeatwhentheyarestillalive,infact,onecanhardlylookattheirhindquarterswithoutthinkingofamintsauce.ThegazelleIwasfeedingseemedtoknowthatthisthoughtwasinmymind,forthoughittookthepieceofbreadIwasholdingoutitobviouslydidnotlikeme.Itnibblednibbledrapidlyatthebread,thenlowereditsheadandtriedtobuttme,thentookanothernibbleandthenbuttedagain.Probablyitsideawasthatifitcoulddrivemeawaythebreadwouldsomehowremainhanginginmid-air.

动物中也恐怕只有瞪羚还活着时就让人觉得是美味佳肴。事实上,人们只要看到它们那两条后腿就会联想到薄荷酱。我现在喂着的这只瞪羚好象已经看透了我的心思。它虽然叼走了我拿在手上的一块面包,但显然不喜欢我这个人。它一面啃食着面包,一面头一低向我顶过来,再啃一下面包又顶过来一次。它大概还因为把我赶开之后那块面包仍会悬在空中。

6AnArabnavvyworkingonthepathnearbyloweredhisheavyhoeandsidledslowlytowardsus.Helookedfromthegazelletothebreadandfromthebreadtothegazelle,withasortofquietamazement,asthoughhehadneverseenanythingquitelikethisbefore.FinallyhesaidshylyinFrench:"1couldeatsomeofthatbread."

一个正在附近小道上干活的阿拉伯挖土工放下笨重的锄头,羞怯地侧着身子慢慢朝我们走过来。他把目光从瞪羚身上移向面包,又从面包转回到瞪羚身上,带着一点惊讶的神色,似乎以前从未见过这种情景。终于,他怯生生的用法语说道:“那面包让我吃一点吧。”

7Itoreoffapieceandhestoweditgratefullyinsomesecretplaceunderhisrags.Thismanisanemployeeofthemunicipality.

我撕下一块面包,他感激地把面包放进破衣裳贴身的地方。这人是市政当局的雇工。

8WhenyougothroughtheJewishQuartersyougathersomeideaofwhatthemedievalghettoeswereprobablylike.UndertheirMoorishMoorishrulerstheJewswereonlyallowedtoownlandincertainrestrictedareas,andaftercenturiesofthiskindoftreatmenttheyhaveceasedtobotheraboutovercrowding.Manyofthestreetsareagooddeallessthansixfeetwide,thehousesare

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